Valérie Gautherot is firmly at the helm of this little restaurant moored on the river Dronne. It summons up images of Sunday fishermen casting their lines into the calm river. Open from April until October 15, it possesses undeniable charm and its bistro-style cuisine surpasses that of many Parisian neighbourhood restaurants.

    The interior is unpretentious and charming, decorated in tones of green and saffron, and it doubles in importance in the big mirror at the back. Numerous fish and ducks, in both sculptures and paintings, set the mood immediately.

    But when the weather's nice, nothing beats the covered patio beside the water. Piu-Piu the swan sleeps quietly in the shade of the trees, beneath a sign that says "Sleeping Swan: Do Not Disturb!" Meanwhile the ducks make their way among the table legs, gathering their offspring, their beaks raised to beg for a crust of bread.

    This is cooking firmly rooted in tradition. Gourmet come here for the fried bleaks, little fish that you eat in one bite as you hold the head between your fingers.

    Don't pass up the "tatin" of foie gras. It may involve a sin of gluttony, but since you're on vacation in Périgord, just call it the good life or...